aiming to make enough to fill a 19L Corny after leaving 2L of gunk in the fermenter.Ĭlick on the 'My Recipes' folder in the left-hand pane and then the 'Add Recipe' button (top left).Let's say we want to brew a simple beer recipe: Here's a short step-by-step, with a particular focus on the mash and sparge volumes so as to get: (a) the desired mash thickness and (b) the right final volume into your keg/bottles.Īpologies that the following seems a bit of a faff: it's simpler than it sounds and you only have to go through most of it once. With those steps, I think I should be more accurately reaching my desired mash temp with minimal fuss.I've been using Beersmith 3 (BS3) for a while, but I've only recently got to grips with its water volume calculations especially the correct way to use the slightly cryptic 'mash tun addition' and 'mash dead-space' options. So for now, I think I'll follow your suggestion and just leave the box unchecked, and input the grain temp shortly before mashing in-I put a probe thermometer into the bucket of malt to get this temperature. I've always used the "Adjust Temp" box as I've historically always mashed in the cooler MLT-old habits die hard. 148dF, that I get exactly the same strike temp as if I don't use the "Adjust Temp" box, all other factors being equal. I'm not sure why I thought this was NOT the case before, but it did lead me to realize that with the "Adjust Temp for Equipment" box checked and the mash tun temperature set to your desired mash temp, e.g.
So, maybe there's just no accounting for taste!Īs it is, I've realized that adjusting the initial grain temp with or without the "Adjust Temp for Equipment" box checked does change the strike temperature. It's either that I'm more accurately hitting my mash temps now whereas before I was creating less fermentable worts on either side of the range, or, it might just be that I'm being hypercritical! A few brews I've done BIAB that I thought were too thin, my in-home beer critic (aka my wife) said they were too heavy. I've started using a much more accurate thermometer, used domestic base malts where I more typically use British base malts, adjusted my malt mill grind, and a few other things-so this is not a scientific evaluation whatsoever. Now, admittedly, a few variables have changed, not limited to just the BIAB process vs. The one thing I've noticed-and maybe this is just some placebo effect-is that the BIAB brews seem lighter in body at a given temperature than when doing a more traditional infusion mash in my cooler-based MLT setup. I've stuck with the single-vessel, single-step (though I do raise the kettle temp for a mash out) in the 3-4 batches since then, and have been hitting 80-83%, and I'm satisfied with that. Oginme: I used your modified BIAB/infusion mash steps for the first couple of BIABs I did, and while I got good results, when I did a straightforward BIAB for comparison, I had pretty much the same efficiencies, with a bit less work. I actually did this on a BIAB batch I did yesterday, and got much closer to my desired mash temp. I suppose I can fake it by punching in a Mash Tun Temperature that is a few degrees higher than my desired strike temperature, but this seems a bit.
Grainfather beersmith mash profile full#
In my mind, if I've selected the "BIAB Mash with Full Boil" in the Mash Profile designer, the MT temperature should be discounted from the strike temp calculation. So, what's the correct way to deal with this? I'd be tempted to call this a bug, since it would seem that the initial MT temperature shouldn't be a factor in calculating strike temp when doing BIAB, but I suppose there are some who do a hybrid-BIAB and use something like a cooler to mash in along with the bag. Really, though, this is incorrect: my mash tun, which is the kettle I'm using to BIAB, is at the same temperature (or near to it) as the water being heated within it. As before, I'm using "Adjust Temp" checkbox along with my grain temp however, I'm leaving "Mash Tun Temperature" at the default, which I believe is 72dF in the shipping profiles.
I've done several BIAB batches now, and have consistently been missing (usually by overshooting) my desired mash temp by 1-3dF, depending on how cold the grain was and whether I'm mashing for light, medium or full body. The "Adjust Temp" checkbox seems to utilize both mash tun temperature and grain temperature (both under "Mash Initial Conditions") in calculation of strike temp. In that case, I use the "Adjust Temp for Equipment" checkbox in the Mash tab to account for these temperatures, and to get the strike water at the right temperature for my desired mash temperature. Previously, I only did AG mashes in my cooler-based MLT, and the MLT and grain are kept out in my garage, which during the winter puts them both around 35-40dF.
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